Overview
Delhi is where Mughal civilisation reached its zenith. The city served as the capital of the Mughal Empire, and the evidence is everywhere — the Red Fort, Jama Masjid, Humayun's Tomb, the Qutub Minar. For a Muslim traveller, walking through Old Delhi isn't sightseeing — it's stepping into the heart of one of Islam's greatest empires.
Old Delhi (Shahjahanabad, the walled city built by Shah Jahan in the 1600s) remains a living, breathing Muslim quarter. The Jama Masjid — India's largest mosque — anchors a neighbourhood of winding lanes packed with some of the best food on the subcontinent. Karim's, operating since 1913, serves Mughlai cuisine using recipes from the Mughal royal kitchen. The kebab vendors of Jama Masjid's night market are legendary. Halal food in Old Delhi isn't something you search for — it's the default.
New Delhi, the British-built administrative capital, is spacious, tree-lined, and monumental. India Gate, Connaught Place, and the government buildings are impressive in a very different way. The contrast between Old Delhi's medieval chaos and New Delhi's colonial geometry is one of the great urban juxtapositions in the world.
Delhi is also chaotic, polluted (especially in winter), and can be overwhelming. The traffic is perpetual, touts are persistent at tourist sites, and the December-January smog is genuinely hazardous. But the food is extraordinary, the Mughal heritage is unmatched, and the Muslim community is one of the largest and most culturally rich in the non-Muslim world.
Halal Food
Delhi's halal food scene is one of the best anywhere. Old Delhi alone could justify a food-focused trip.
What to eat
- Mughlai kebabs: Seekh kebab, galouti kebab (so delicate they dissolve on the tongue), kakori kebab, and shami kebab. The kebab tradition in Delhi descends directly from Mughal court cuisine. Karim's near Jama Masjid and Al Jawahar across the road are the most famous — but the small stalls in the lanes are equally good
- Nihari: Slow-cooked beef or mutton stew, simmered overnight with spices, served with naan for breakfast. A Mughal dish that's become Old Delhi's signature morning meal. Rich, intense, and unforgettable
- Biryani: Delhi's biryani is Mughlai-style — aromatic, layered, with saffron and fried onions. Different from Hyderabadi or Lucknawi styles but equally magnificent
- Butter chicken and dal makhani: Both invented in Delhi at Moti Mahal restaurant in the 1950s. Creamy, rich, and now world-famous. The halal versions at Old Delhi restaurants are the originals
- Jalebi and rabri: Old Delhi's iconic dessert combination. Hot, crispy, syrup-soaked jalebi with cold, thickened sweet milk (rabri). Old Famous Jalebi Wala in Chandni Chowk has been making them since 1884
- Chole bhature: Spiced chickpea curry with deep-fried puffed bread. Not Mughlai but ubiquitous and completely vegetarian. The ultimate Delhi breakfast
- Paratha: Stuffed flatbreads from the legendary Paranthe Wali Gali (Lane of Parathas) in Chandni Chowk. Stuffed with potato, cauliflower, paneer, or mixed vegetables
Where to eat
Old Delhi (Shahjahanabad) — the epicentre. The lanes around Jama Masjid, Chandni Chowk, and Matia Mahal are one of the greatest street food corridors in the world. Karim's, Al Jawahar, Haji Shabrati's nihari, and hundreds of unnamed stalls. Everything is halal in the Muslim lanes. Prices are very low (INR 50-300 for a full meal).
Nizamuddin area — around the Hazrat Nizamuddin Dargah (the shrine of the Sufi saint). Excellent Mughlai food, qawwali music performances, and a spiritual atmosphere. The food here is soul food in every sense.
Jangpura and Defence Colony — middle-class residential areas with good halal restaurants at moderate prices.
Connaught Place — Delhi's commercial centre. Some halal restaurants and chains. More expensive than Old Delhi.
Practical notes
- Vegetarian India: Delhi has extraordinary vegetarian food. If you can't find halal meat in a particular area, the vegetarian options (paneer dishes, dal, chole, dosa) are world-class
- Street food safety: Eat at busy stalls. Old Delhi's street food has been feeding millions safely for centuries — follow the crowds
- Water: Bottled only. Never tap water
Mosques & Prayer
Essential mosques
Jama Masjid — built by Shah Jahan in 1656. India's largest mosque, holding 25,000 worshippers. The red sandstone and white marble structure is magnificent. The courtyard is vast. Jummah prayers here — with thousands of worshippers spilling into the surrounding streets — is one of the most powerful congregational prayer experiences in the world. Open to visitors outside prayer times (small fee for camera, free otherwise). Modest dress required.
Fatehpuri Masjid — at the western end of Chandni Chowk. Built in 1650. A functioning mosque in the heart of Old Delhi's market area. Less touristy than Jama Masjid, more intimate.
Hazrat Nizamuddin Dargah — the shrine complex of the great Sufi saint Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya (1238-1325). Not a mosque per se, but a deeply spiritual site with a mosque, tombs (including the poet Amir Khusrau), and Thursday evening qawwali sessions that are transcendent. The qawwali tradition at Nizamuddin is 700 years old and still alive. Absolutely do not miss this.
Qutub Minar complex — the 73-metre minaret built in 1193 by Qutub-ud-din Aibak. The first major Islamic monument in India. The surrounding complex includes mosques and tombs from the Delhi Sultanate period. A UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Prayer rooms and neighbourhood mosques
Old Delhi has mosques on nearly every lane. New Delhi has fewer but they're well-distributed. Hotels can provide prayer mats and qibla direction. Most malls (Select Citywalk, DLF Promenade) have prayer rooms.
Qibla and prayer times
Qibla from Delhi is west-southwest (261°). Prayer times have moderate seasonal variation. Standard apps work. The Jama Masjid adhan is audible across Old Delhi — follow the sound.
Getting Around
Delhi is vast and traffic is relentless. The metro is your salvation.
Your options
- Delhi Metro: India's best metro system. Clean, efficient, and extensive (12 lines, 250+ stations). Covers all major tourist and residential areas. Women-only carriages available. Single ride INR 10-60. Buy a Delhi Metro smart card for convenience
- Uber and Ola: Both operate extensively. Air-conditioned, metered, and your best option for door-to-door transport. Very cheap (a 20-minute ride costs INR 150-300 / $2-4)
- Auto-rickshaw: The classic Delhi experience. Negotiate fares before boarding or insist on the meter. A 15-minute ride costs INR 50-100. Chaotic but fun
- Cycle-rickshaw: Perfect for navigating Old Delhi's narrow lanes where cars can't go. Negotiate the fare. INR 20-50 for short distances
- Walking: Old Delhi is walkable (and best explored on foot) but New Delhi is too spread out. Pavements are often broken or nonexistent
From the airport
Indira Gandhi International Airport is 15 km southwest:
- Airport Express Metro: Direct to New Delhi station. 20 minutes, INR 60. The best option
- Uber/Ola: INR 400-700 ($5-8) to central Delhi
- Prepaid taxi: Available at the airport. Fixed rates by destination, no negotiation
Neighbourhoods to Stay
Old Delhi (near Jama Masjid) — budget hotels and guesthouses in the Muslim quarter. Walking distance to the best food and mosques. Noisy, chaotic, and basic. Best for immersion and halal food access.
Paharganj — the backpacker strip near New Delhi Railway Station. Budget hotels, travel agencies, and a hectic atmosphere. Close to Connaught Place by metro. Budget. Best for transit-focused travellers.
Connaught Place / Janpath — central New Delhi. Colonial architecture, shopping, and restaurants. Good metro connections. Mid-range. Best for a balanced base.
South Delhi (Defence Colony, Hauz Khas, Greater Kailash) — leafy, residential, and modern. Good restaurants, malls, and a more comfortable experience than Old Delhi. Mid-range to upscale. Best for families.
Nizamuddin — near the Dargah and railway station. Some hotels and guesthouses. Spiritual atmosphere. Best for those drawn to the Sufi heritage.
Ramadan
Delhi's enormous Muslim community makes Ramadan a significant event, especially in Old Delhi.
What to expect
- Old Delhi transforms: Iftar stalls line the streets around Jama Masjid. The food is extraordinary — special Ramadan dishes (haleem, fruit chaat, sherbet, dates) appear alongside the regular offerings. The atmosphere after Maghrib is electric — families, food, and celebration
- Jama Masjid taraweeh: Thousands attend. The Quran recitation is beautiful. One of Delhi's great Ramadan experiences
- Nizamuddin Dargah: Ramadan qawwali sessions are particularly powerful
- Suhoor: Old Delhi has pre-dawn food culture during Ramadan. Nihari stalls open early. Elsewhere, self-manage
- Summer fasting: Delhi summers (May-June) combine 15-16 hour fasts with 45°C+ heat. Extremely challenging. Visit during winter Ramadan for a more comfortable experience (and better air quality)
Tips
When to visit
- Best: October to March (winter). Clear skies (mostly), cool temperatures (10-25°C). November and February are ideal
- Air quality warning: Delhi's air pollution peaks in November-January (stubble burning season + winter inversions). AQI regularly exceeds 300-400 (hazardous). Bring N95 masks. If you have respiratory issues, avoid November-December
- Summer (April-June): Extreme heat (40-47°C). Dangerous for outdoor sightseeing
- Monsoon (July-September): Hot, humid, and heavy rains. The city can flood
Money
- Currency: Indian Rupee (INR). 1 USD ≈ 85 INR
- Budget: Delhi is very affordable. A full meal in Old Delhi costs INR 100-300 ($1-4). Mid-range restaurant INR 500-1,500 ($6-18). Budget hotel INR 1,000-3,000/night ($12-35). Mid-range INR 3,000-8,000/night ($35-95)
Visa
Most nationalities need an Indian e-visa. Apply online before travel. Processing takes 3-5 business days. GCC and Malaysian citizens usually get straightforward approval.
Safety
Delhi requires street smarts. Scams targeting tourists are common (fake tourist offices, rigged taxi meters, gem scams). Women should exercise extra caution — Delhi has a documented harassment problem, especially on public transport (use women-only metro carriages). Stick to well-lit, busy areas at night. Old Delhi's lanes are safe during the day but can feel intimidating at night.
Language
Hindi and Urdu are both widely spoken. English is common at hotels, tourist sites, and among educated Delhiites. In Old Delhi's Muslim lanes, Urdu is the community language. "Halal hai?" (Is it halal?), "Kitna?" (How much?), "Shukriya" (Thank you — Urdu).
Day trips
- Agra and the Taj Mahal: 3-4 hours by car or 2 hours by Gatimaan Express
- Mathura and Vrindavan: Hindu holy cities, 3 hours south. Interesting cultural contrast
- Jaipur: The Pink City, 5 hours by car or train. Completes the "Golden Triangle" with Delhi and Agra
Final Verdict
Delhi earns a 4 out of 5 for Muslim friendliness. The one-point deduction is for the chaos, pollution, and safety concerns — not for the halal infrastructure, which is superb. Old Delhi is one of the great Muslim food destinations on earth. The Jama Masjid is magnificent. The Mughal monuments are world-class. And the Nizamuddin qawwali is a spiritual experience that has no equivalent.
Delhi is not easy. It's loud, polluted, and sometimes exhausting. But it rewards the prepared traveller with a depth of Islamic culture and culinary tradition that few cities can match. The Mughal Empire's capital still lives in the lanes of Shahjahanabad, in the nihari served at dawn, in the adhan echoing off the Red Fort walls. Come hungry, come patient, and come ready to be moved.